Before you print
2 things to know about this spoolDry it before you print
It quietly soaks up moisture from the air, which leaves prints rough, weak and stringy. Dry it first, then keep it sealed.
Print inside an enclosure
It cools too fast in open air and can warp or crack. A closed-in printer holds the heat around the print.
New here? Nozzle = printing temperature in your slicer, bed = build plate. Start at the big number.
- Nozzle is the hot-end temperature: enter it as the printing temperature in your slicer. Start at the big number; the range is the safe window to tune within.
- Bed is the heated build plate: your slicer calls it bed temperature. It helps prints stick.
- OFD is the Open Filament Database, the community-maintained source this spec sheet comes from.
Specs
- Diameter
- 1.75 mm
- Spool sizes
- 1 kg
- Density
- 1.2 g/cm³
- Diameter tolerance
- ±0.02 mm
Available colors (7)
Editorial notesUpdated 2026-05-10
Requires all-metal hot-end rated to at least 260 °C — PTFE-lined hot-ends are not safe at these temperatures.
Dry thoroughly (80 °C, 8+ hours) before printing — moisture causes weak, bubbly layers.
Needs a high-temp setup: nozzle 260–280 °C, bed 100–120 °C, and an enclosure to prevent warping. A stock Bambu X1C or Voron-style enclosed printer handles it well; open-frame printers like the Ender 3 will struggle. Dry the filament thoroughly (80 °C for 8–12 h) before printing — PC is extremely hygroscopic and moisture causes bubbling and weak layers.
Sources & verification
- Data: Open Filament Database
- OFD snapshot generated: 2026-07-11